Variety contains extra copies of genes resulting in luxurious aroma and bold yet refined taste, says biophysics expert
PETALING JAYA: Few fruits inspire such fierce devotion – or disgust – as the durian. And among Malaysia’s many varieties, none rule quite like Musang King (D197), the nation’s undisputed monarch of aroma and taste.
Celebrated for its rich, buttery texture and unmistakably bold fragrance, Musang King has become the benchmark for durian lovers across Asia. But its supremacy is no accident – it is written deep within the fruit itself.
According to Universiti Malaysia Terengganu food biochemistry and biophysics expert Assoc Prof Dr Mohamad Khairi Mohd Zainol, the magic of Musang King lies in its genes.
“Musang King contains extra copies of genes that produce volatile sulphur compounds – the same molecules that give durian its signature smell,” he said.
These compounds, including diethyl disulfide and ethyl 2-methylbutanoate, appear in far higher concentrations in Musang King than in kampung durian or other varieties.
Mohamad Khairi said the result is a more rounded aroma – roasted, creamy and subtly cabbage-like.
In contrast, wild durian release more trisulfides, creating a sharper, harsher odour that lacks the smooth sweetness and depth of Musang King.
“It is this delicate balance between sulphur volatiles and fruity esters that gives Musang King its luxurious fragrance – bold yet refined, complex yet inviting,” he said.
“No wonder it remains the benchmark for what a truly exceptional durian should be.”
If the second or third bite of durian tastes milder than the first, there is science behind it.
The same sulphur compounds that give durian its punchy aroma can trigger sensory adaptation – a temporary dulling of smell and taste.
“The rich fat content in durian, especially in Musang King, adds another layer of complexity,” said Mohamad Khairi.
“The fats coat the tongue and palate, slowing the release of aroma compounds.
“This changes how flavours evolve over time, making each bite taste a little different.”
This interplay between aroma chemistry and fat texture gives durian its famously creamy mouthfeel and evolving flavour – one that keeps fans coming back for more.
Like wine or coffee, there is an art to appreciating durian. Mohamad Khairi recommends starting with milder varieties before moving on to stronger ones like Musang King.
“This gradual progression allows you to appreciate the sweetness, creaminess and subtle fragrance of each type without overwhelming your senses,” he said.
To reset the palate between varieties, he suggests plain water or unsalted crackers – both help neutralise lingering sulphur compounds so each unique flavour can be appreciated.
Temperature, ripeness and freshness also shape the durian experience.
“Temperature directly affects how aroma compounds behave,” said Mohamad Khairi.
“At warmer temperatures, volatile sulphur compounds and esters evaporate more easily, intensifying the smell. When chilled, those volatiles are less active, and the durian may taste flatter.”
As the fruit ripens, enzymes convert starches into sugars and ramp up sulphur production, creating that ideal balance of sweetness, richness and aroma. But once harvested, the chemistry keeps changing – poorly stored or overripe fruits could ferment, turning bitter or alcoholic.
“The volatile sulphur compounds of durian are incredibly strong, After repeated exposure, our brain begins filtering out the signals – a phenomenon known as sensory adaptation” said Mohamad Khairi.
Combined with the natural fats in durian, this prolongs the release of aroma molecules, creating what many describe as a “heavy” aftertaste.
“It’s part of what makes the durian experience so distinctive.
“Initially overwhelming, but utterly unforgettable for those who love it,” he said.
