A Bulgarian farmer breeds rare beluga sturgeon in a pristine mountain lake, producing a luxury caviar exported worldwide, especially for Christmas
KARDZHALI: There is no rest for Matey Mateev as the festive season drives global demand for his rare beluga caviar.
November and December are the busiest months for his farm on Kardzhali lake in Bulgaria’s Rhodope mountains.
In the large lake, “sturgeons enjoy natural conditions similar to those of the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, their seas of origin,” Mateev told AFP.
The 53-year-old pioneer started his business in the 1990s after Bulgaria’s communist collapse.
He began breeding carp before he “chanced upon” the sturgeon and, subsequently, caviar.
Mateev chose to farm the beluga, one of the rarest sturgeon species.
Bulgaria ranks among Europe’s largest producers of this “king of caviars,” with output exceeding 520 kilos in 2023.
The beluga is one of the largest freshwater fish, capable of living over 100 years.
Breeding it requires hefty investment as it matures slowly, becoming fertile around age 15.
“These days we only produce beluga caviar from fish over 20,” said Mateev.
His son Boris joked that some fish are older than he is.
In the farm’s laboratory, “each kilo of caviar passes through my hands,” Mateev stated.
He exports his product to “almost every place in the world,” especially to France.
Luxury shops in Paris sell his beluga caviar under various brand names.
“We are in the peak season as Christmas is approaching,” said Olivier Veillet of Caviar de Neuvic in Paris.
Beluga caviar is the most expensive kind, costing about 192 euros for a 30-gram box.
Restaurant manager Charles de Saint-Vincent said beluga sells for 3,000 to 8,000 euros per kilo.
He noted that Hollywood legend Elizabeth Taylor called beluga caviar her “grey babies.”
“It is a rich but not too strong caviar, sweet and intense at the same time,” Saint-Vincent described.
China dominates global caviar production, with Italy and France leading in Europe.
However, beluga caviar accounts for only 1% of total production.
Bulgaria has found a niche due to the Danube and Black Sea being the sturgeon’s natural habitat.
The country currently has a handful of sturgeon farms, with most production from three farms at Kardzhali lake.
While farming thrives, wild sturgeon remain seriously endangered from overfishing and pollution.
An indefinite ban on fishing the species in Bulgaria takes effect on January 1. – AFP
