THIS 2024 was quite a year for beauty enthusiasts as TikTok seemingly took over YouTube’s role in the community, with consumers gradually moving to the short-form video app.
From Dior’s backstage glow blush and Flower Knows makeup collection to the recent Patrick Ta’s Major Dimension Illusion eyeshadow duo, the beauty community has seen many beauty products emerge, die and prevail. Consequently, as more brands emerge and existing ones (especially luxury) become accessible to the masses, makeup trends have also taken over the platform as beauty content creators and regular, chronically-online individuals recreate looks inspired by the trends. While the discourse over the ideal makeup routine is stuck in a perpetual impasse, here is a look back at six major trends that took over the internet in 2024 as the year comes to an end.
Douyin fairy makeup
Made popular on the Chinese social app Douyin, TikTok beauty influencers, who were inspired by the ethereal makeup look, started recreating it. The look starts with a moisturised face that imitates glass skin. Layered thinly with foundation and concealer, the makeup emulates a soft, doll-like complexion. Complemented with shimmery eyes and pronounced aegyosal (the fat underneath the eyes), the Douyin makeup achieves a youthful, almost fairy-like look by placing the blush right at the apple of the cheeks, with highlights on the cheekbones. A look that omits the once-popular Kylie Jenner-Kim Kardashian contour technique, this style of makeup also became popular among K-pop artistes such as Wonyoung of Ive as it highlights her natural doll-like features.
Pat McGrath’s porcelain dolls
Dame Pat McGrath is not a name unknown in the beauty and fashion community. A revolutionary makeup artist in her own right, she is known for creating iconic looks such as the feathered and jewel-encrusted eye looks for Valentino Spring 2019 and Spring/Summer 2020, respectively. Hence, the porcelain skin, thin eyebrows and the 18th-century watercolour makeup was a work of art only McGrath could create. A melodious but disruptive symphony, the porcelain doll look augmented John Galliano’s artisanal show for Maison Margiela 2024 with the added drama needed to complete the gothic runaway. Although a runaway look, TikTok content creators recreated it and gave it their spin. The recreations were met with criticism but it does not take away from the fact that McGrath’s work opened a window of creative expression. It is the kind of look that is meant for the history book.
Hailey Bieber’s Sugar Plum Fairy
The Sugar Plum Fairy look started in 2023 during the Christmas season and it was made popular by Rhode mogul Hailey Bieber who became the moodboard for the clean girl makeup, a 2023 trend. Bieber’s take on the look came after going viral for her off-duty model makeup. The subtle pink, shimmery look is inspired by the Sugar Plum Fairy aesthetics from the two-act classical ballet Nutcracker by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky. The model used to be a ballerina and the look was her 2023 version as it was her go-to for the holiday season, she said on her TikTok. Accentuated with a pink blush, glossy lips, highlighted cheekbones and shimmery eyes, the Sugar Plum Fairy trend enjoyed longevity in early 2024 (post-holiday season) when “ballerina core” and “coquette aesthetics” took over TikTok.
Sabrina Carpenter’s Short & Sweet tour looks
Sabrina Carpenter’s name is synonymous with cute and flirty summer bangers – known for her sultry voice and her short stature, the pop’s favourite Polly Pocket is also making the news for her Short & Sweet tour looks. Although ridiculed for “blush blindness”, her tour makeup is recreated many a time by beauty content creators. The look is achieved by using two shades of dewy, pigmented blush, individual lash clusters for a natural look and a glossy, defined lip combo. The entire look is complemented by a shimmery highlighter. The starlet always plays it up with the eye makeup to match her outfits. Carpenter debuted this style of makeup when she released the Espresso single artwork and she also sported the dewy look for the music video.
Mob wife makeup
The mob wife’s makeup was a counter-response to the clean girl makeup in 2023. The look is a culmination of decades of beauty trends – namely the 70s, 80s and 90s. The mob wife’s look comprises a bold lip, smoky eyes and medium to full coverage matte foundation. This beauty trend has roots in Italian makeup, which includes smoky eyes and coloured matte lips. Think Monica Bellucci. Eventually, this style led to a short-lived Bellucci makeup trend.
French girl beauty
A never-dying trend is the French girl aesthetics. The look is simple – keep the face fresh and moisturised with light usage of products to accentuate desired points of the face.
The key to nailing a French girl-style of makeup is the technique of applying a red lip. Dab the lipstick on the lips and blur out the edges for a “just kissed” look (the intensity of the lip colour is according to desire). After that, pat some of that same red lipstick onto the cheeks for a natural flush. The classic makeup look may have re-surged in popularity due to the Netflix hit show Emily in Paris as French characters such as Sylvie Grateau and Camille were seen sporting the effortless look.
These trends may be a frivolous for some but makeup have been a form of expression for aeons. From Queen Elizabeth I’s white-lead makeup that represents the ideal beauty to Mesopotamia’s Queen Puabi’s red lips that symbolises power, makeup is one way an individual makes a statement. Over the decades, iconic techniques such as Marilyn Monroe’s 1950s winged eyeliner and the 1930s thin eyebrows have been the “face” of an era, making makeup looks a visual documentation of history. Whether to assert oneself or express creativity, makeup will continue to be part of humanity’s natural flair for creation.
